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The John Lobb brand is among the most renowned manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the 1800s.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from young French calf hides. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The range combines iconic staples with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen model gained refined buckles and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the mid-20th century, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah trainers, which are offered annually in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in world-class shoemaking.
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